Friday, September 29, 2006

Hong Nor Option parts




New 2 pieces engine mount. Its a CNC Machined Aluminium. For X1CR and X1CRT.







If u interested... send me an email. i connect u to the right person.;))

Tuning Nitro Engine 101

Source: Tuning Engine By Josh Cyrul!

I follow 90% of its style if not 100%... so i wanna share with you all.

"Each day you arrive at a race track to race your nitro engine there are many variables that change: air temp, air pressure, humidity and even minor differences from one gallon of fuel to the next. These differences can really affect your engine's tune and overall performance. Here's my general routine that I go through to tune my engine to get the best starting point to work from given the variables for the day. This routine can also be used if you decided to change nitro content or even a pipe or manifold at the track.

To start, raise the idle by closing the idle needle about ¼ turn from where the engine ran last. This will keep the engine from flaming out when running through the routine. Next, it's to the starter box to fire up the engine. Make sure to “blip” the throttle a few times to warm the engine up to a reasonable temperature. Open the top end needle a full turn and then slowly open up the carburetor to full throttle. Once you are at full throttle continue to open the top end needle until it nearly flames out. If it does flame out just close the top end needle about ¼ turn so you can restart the engine and continue with the process. The idea behind this is that you are sending a large quantity of fuel through the carburetor with very open needles, thus flushing out any dirt, residue or after run products from the engine. From here, close the top end needle (carburetor still at full throttle) until the clutch starts to engage and the wheels will spin. We will come back to this needle to finish tuning the engine for racing.

Setting the bottom end correctly can not only improve throttle response and bottom end power but it can also increase the consistency and reliability of your engine. To set the bottom end you should listen to the idle speed of the engine. Pay attention if it speeds up or slows down over a 10-20 second time frame. If the idle speed increases then you should open the bottom end needle. On the contrary, if the speed decreases then you should close the bottom end needle. Once you have achieved an idle that stays constant for about 1 minute you can begin to open the idle needle, which will lower the engines idle speed. Open the needle until the engine flames out and then close the idle needle about 1/8 of a turn and restart the engine. Your engine should idle for 45+ seconds before the idle will slow enough to flame out. This should yield a very low and consistent idle speed that will give you better fuel mileage, lower engine temperature and better operation of your clutch.

After tuning the bottom end and idle we are now back to the top end. The top end is usually best set out on the race track, but here's a way to get it close on the bench. Open the carburetor to full throttle (never for more than 2-3 seconds before returning to idle) listening to achieve a nice, clean sound. Take your time with this, it will greatly affect the life of your engine!! Once the engine sounds good, you have to make sure it isn't too lean. For a long straight, hard braking and then hard acceleration to the next corner out on the race track this is the best way to simulate that cycle on the bench. Open the carburetor to full throttle for 2-3 seconds, close the carburetor for 2-3 seconds and then back to full throttle for 2-3 seconds. Your engine should rev as nice on the 2 nd blast as it did on the first. If the engine hesitates then it is too lean and you need to open the top end needle. Remember, it's always better to start a little too rich vs. too lean!!

This routine should get your engine ready for the track each day before you race. While you are driving your car around the track remember to listen to the engine. Watching the smoke from the engine's exhaust is ok, but a lot of times it doesn't always give you a consistent reading of your engines tune. Different fuel mixtures (different oils or oil percentages) don't always yield the same smoke so it's important to have another gauge such as throttle feel, sound, as well as a temperature probe are all good ways to gauge your engines performance. Be patient and have fun!!"

Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
CEFX

Engine run-in WOT style


Im not an expert here. just wanna share how i do it and provide why i do it. Check the picture above, all the necessary equipments are there. Josh Cyrul Engine Break-In 101.
The video is just a sample of how i do engine run-in. Wide Open Throttle Style.






"The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track."

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Borneo Cup 2006, Tawau Sabah!



The forum is at http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=124640

Race result!

Borneo Cup 1:8 Offroad Buggy result.

A MAIN FINAL 45 MINS RACE

1. SUNNY / HongNor X1CR / 74 LAPS / SARAWAK
2. LAI KOK HENG / HongNor X1CR / 70 LAPS / K.L
3. ALEXIUS LEE / HOBAO / 67 LAPS / K.L
4. SIMON YII / SACKER / 66 LAPS / SARAWAK
5. IKHWAN / KYOSHO / 65 LAPS / K.L
6. WENYI / HongNor X1CR / 63 LAPS / SINGAPORE
7. TPK / MUGEN / 53 LAPS / K.L
8. ANDERSON / SACKER / 50 LAPS / SABAH
9. ERIC LIM / HOBAO / 20 LAPS / K.L
10. CHAI KOK CHIN / MUGEN / DNS / K.L

B MAIN RESULT

1. LENG / 54 / SINGAPORE GS
2. FRANCIS / 52 / SIBU Sacker
3. MACHAI / 51 / SABAH TAWAU
4. DAVID / 51 / JB (Hongnor X1CR)
5. DRAGON 4 / 48 / SABAH TAWAU
6. TAINAM / 44 / SABAH TAWAU
7. AZRI / 43 / K.L
8. JASON / 42 / SABAH TAWAU
9. JON TRUGGY / 39 / SABAH KK (Hongnor X1CR)

C MAIN RESULT

1. AH CHOO / 35 / SABAH KK
2. JASON VUI / 34 / SABAH KK
3. FREEDY / 34 / SABAH KK
4. ADNAN / 27 / SABAH KK
5. PING / 24 / SABAH TAWAU
6. NOODLE CHUNG / 24 / SABAH TAWAU
7. ROLEX CHONG / 21 / SABAH TAWAU
8. VUN / 12 / SABAH TAWAU
9. VUI VUI / DNS / SABAH TAWAU

D MAIN RESULT

1. Mansur (KK)
2. Rizal (KK)

It was held at Tawau Sabah GMT +8hrs, North Borneo Island. On 16th to 17th Sept 2006. The track located at Mile 8, Apas. Its just beside the road to the new airport. See below the picture. Its the one on the right of coz! The one on the left, one of the biggest on-road track in Malaysia. Picture taken from the road.


We came as Team Kota Kinabalu and others came as far as Singapore, Johor Bahru, Kuala Lumpur and Sibu Sarawak.


I represent Hongnor X1CR Buggy together with 4 other from KL, JB, Singapore & Sibu Sarawak.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

STS engine D28M / 21B



This is the engine I won the O'Donnell Off-road Championship with. What is interesting is that through a broken diff that was binding the drive train at a big race, I had what seemed like no power, so I kept telling my pit man to lean it out ( main event ) and he did so... until it got very hot indeed. It got up to over 400 degrees and was still running well. We thought it would have trashed the engine but we were wrong. With NO rebuild at all, that is the very same motor that won the O'Donnell. Now that same motor has won AGAIN, the RD Logics Off-road Championships in the Expert Truggy Class. These motors are so well made and such quality it is just amazing.

Quote from racernine driver




D28M (#2801*)
Monster Truck Engine
Cylinder Contents 4.66cc
Bore: 18.80mm / Stroke:16.80mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor: 2 Needles Slide 9 mm
Piston / Sleeve: ABC 3P
Glow-plug : Standard
Use : 1/8 buggy;1/8 Monster Truck

#2801 Pull-Start Version*
#2804 Shaft-Start Version
#2805 Standard Version
http://www.stsrc.com.tw/28engines.ph

D21B (#2101)
Buggy Competition Engine
Cylinder Contents : 3.48cc
Bore: 16.20mm / Stroke:16.80mm
Crankshaft : 14mm SG type
Carburetor : 2 Needles Slide 8 mm
Piston / Sleeve : ABC 5P
Glow-plug : Standard / Turbo
Use : 1/8 buggy

STS Racing Taiwan 21B

*** .28 & .21 use the same Carburator!


Factory needle setting

HSN 2T out
LSN 3T out

Running needle setting

HSN 1.5 to 2T out (others will say u running lean but ignore them!)
LSN 3 to 4T out (even sometimes 5T ... this carb like to be rich at LSN)

Temperature Guideline

When the air temp. is lower than 5C,stay at home.
When the air temp. is 5~15C (41~59F) Keep the engine temp around 80C(176F)
When the air temp. is 15~25C(59~77F) Keep the engine temp around 100C(212F)
When the air temp. is 25~35C (77~95F) Keep the engine temp around 120C(248F)
When the air temp. is more than 35C (95F) Keep the engine temp around 140C(284F)

If your engine works just fine and you feel the power is enough,you don't need to worry about the shim's setting. All STS engine shimmed for 30% nitro,if you are running 20% or 15%,you may need to remove some shims for getting the most power.

Pullstart problem

This is what Dino said in the sts .28 rctech forum regarding how to pullstart.
Page 7, post #209.


We talk about the bleeding blisters first!
when you operate the pull-start system,there are some tips.

1)Before you start the engine,pull the line out fully. Then you know the total length of the line. Don't over pull it out! With a strong arm you will damage the pull-start system.

2)Why you got some bleeding blisters is because your finger touch the heat sink(cooling head). So it is important that you don't need to pull the starter from the start. You can pull the starter around 10cm out slowly,then just start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. Then your finger or hand should not touch the heat sink.

3)ok let us try to start the engine. Use your knee press on the tyres to fix your monster truck. Right hand pull the starter line out around 10cm. Left hand finger block the pipe then pull the starter line several times. Make sure the fuel be pumped into the carburetor. It not,that means the LSN is too lean or even cut the fuel supply at idle position already. Or the carb is close fully and no air bypass.

4)Put on the igniter and make sure the idle opened. Start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. After several time pulling,the engine should be started.

5)If it still not work,it most have some thing wrong. Stop to keep on trying. Try to find anything wrong. Check if the plug is fine and the igniter battery. Check if the fuel enter the carb already. Check if the idle is open enough. If you can see a lot of fuel flow out from the tuned pipe,that means the HSN is too rich.

6)After the engine started,don't loosen your hand suddenly and let the starter line return very fast. That is not cool! It may snap the return spring. You should let the inner spring return the line slowly.

Above process is what I start mine D28M. Hope you understand my poor english. For you information..

Dino advice to newbie:

It is not because of the small gears,it is because our engine has too big compression. It may happen when your engine use not more than one gallon of fuel. When the first gallon,the compression is too big. Everytime you start the engine,you need to loosen the grow plug a little. About half turn is enough. Then try to start the engine. Once the engine is started,tighten the plug soon. I'm sorry because we want to produce a race level pull start engine,so we give you the race level piston/sleeve set. We want your engine lasting longer under serious situation. But it do make the engine hard to start no matter pull-start or roto-start. Remember to loosen the plug would help. We just don't want to produce RTR level engine,it's not our style. You can check your engine,when you remove the plug it is very smooth. Once the plug installed it is unbelievable tight! It is a standard of a race engine. Maybe we should give you more shims but a lot of people don't know they need to remove shims after break-in....that's why we don't give you extra shims lately...but the gears issue pop-out.... Best Regards, Dino

Horsepower comparison:

check this link from my friend, Ryan of http://www.racernine.com/horsepower.html
comparing engines from HPI .28, RB TM7 .28, Infinity .28, Sirio 27S.
STS .28 got the most horsepower!!!!!!!! at a very reasonable price!!! How can u beat that!

STS Dealers

These are my friends ...
David Aw of http://www.awhobby.com from Johor Bahru, Malaysia
Ryan of http://www.racernine.com/sts.html. Utah, USA.

Must links:

STS own website from Taiwan http://www.stsrc.com.tw
STS 28 engine Rctech Forum http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=59523&page=1&pp=30 (first page)


Sunday, September 10, 2006

What is Radio Control Offroad?



Well, its a sport or may i say Big Boys Toy Hobby. Hahaha. Doing it offroad style. Meaning getting dirty with sand, stone, tree trunk, roots poking out and even jump into pool of mud. its totally opposite of clean asphalt road or track.

As u can see from the left ... mostly guys race like this. Big Boys. except one maybe... small boy fro thailand, hahaha. It was taken at the recent HPC 2nd Annual race.






The racers drives or in other word, control their vehicle using the radio controller with PCM, FM or AM tranmission on the driverstand, high above the ground.

Saturday, September 09, 2006

Offroad Talk



Now what is this all about? Not another forum. oh please. My english is not good, so just forgive me if u dont understand. This is just a place to share information, discussion or any new tips for us Radio Control (R/C) driver.



Let me start by sharing my ride. I have two most awesome kits in 1:8 class. The buggy and the Truggy. Yes truggy means Truck plus Buggy kind of thing. Its very popular in USA and in Asia its just catching up. I also have HPI Savage 25 of which i modded to make it a racing king.


ok... im tired. i will further extend this paragraph when i have the time. pls comment if u want to. i need feedback anyway. :)